Homeowners Guide to Composting
What is composting?
Composting is the process of decomposing vegetative matter by bacterial action. This bacteria
breaks down plant tissue. Later in the process fungi and protozoans join the bacteria in further
breaking the material down, as well as insects, and worms in the final stages. The final product,
called humus, increases soil fertility, reduces erosion, improves soil properties, and can help
control weeds and some plant diseases. Through composting, yard waste is being diverted from
landfills, and thereby conserving landfill space.
What can be composted?
Anything that once was growing in your yard is potential food for your compost. This includes:
leaves, grass clippings, wood chips, fruits & vegetables, coffee grounds, and manure. Never put
meat, bones, grease, whole eggs or dairy products into the pile because these foods do not readily
break down, produce foul odors, and may attract rodents.
What is essential for composting?
1.
Material - the products discussed before are good if they are properly mixed. For
best results, you should combined "brown" materials which are high in carbon (leaves & wood
chips), to "green" materials which are high in nitrogen (grass clippings, fruits & vegetables,
ect.). Mix 1 part "brown" to 2 parts "green". Limit the amount of diseased plants added, due to the
possible transfer of them to wherever the compost is laid.
2.
Surface Area - the more area the microorganisms have to work in, the faster the
material will decompose. Chopping your yard wastes with a shovel, or running them through a
lawnmower, or chipper will speed the composting process.
3.
Volume - the size of the pile depends on how quickly you want a useable product.
The microbes generate heat while breaking down the material. A large compost will hold this heat,
allowing faster decomposition; while, a smaller one (less then 3 cubic ft.) will allow too much air
to pass through and slow the process down. Recommended size : 4 cubic feet.
4.
Moisture & Aeration - like all living things, the microbes in the pile need
air and water. The moisture content should be that of a sponge, but not soggy. Turn, or aerate,
your pile every 4 to 10 days (more often speeds the process) to add oxygen. Keep the pile in an
area with good drainage, partial sunlight, and out of drying winds.
5.
Time & Temperature - the hotter the pile temperature, the faster the
composting. If you use materials with the proper "brown/green" ratio, have a large enough surface
area, enough volume, moisture, and are regularly aerating it, you will cause the material to
quickly heat up, and decompose the material faster.
What is a compost bin?
This is the container that holds the material that is decomposing. It is not necessary to use a
bin; an open pile is fine. There are essentially 4 types of construction material for a bin. The
use of snow fencing, woven wire with ½ inch air holes, wooden pallets, and blocks or bricks.
Whatever construction material is chosen should be sturdy, and allow for easy access to the whole
pile.
How should the pile be constructed?
The compost material should be put into the bin in 4 layers:
1st layer (base) - coarse, woody products that enables air to circulate through
bottom. This should be on exposed dirt which permits for soil microorganisms to enter.
2nd layer - combination of yard waste and finer wood products (saw dust). This
should be slightly damp.
3rd layer - a thin layer of top soil which allows more microorganisms to enter the
pile.
4th layer - materials that are high in nitrogen, these are your "green" products
(fresh plant and vegetables).
Continue adding material in layers- numerically (1-4) until the bin is full. All material added
should be mixed as it is added after the initial construction.
How should the pile be maintain?
By following the essentials, your pile should be relatively easy to maintain. Here is a quick
review of the information:
1. Keep the mix 1 part "brown" to 2 parts "green".
2. Chop or mulch material before adding to pile if possible.
3. Keep the pile moist.
4. Aerate the pile at least twice a month, more often if desired.
5. Limit the amount of diseased plants added.
6. Mix material in as it is added so it is not sitting on top of the pile.
7. If a problem arises, see our Compost Trouble Shooting Guide.
Compost Trouble Shooting Guide
| Problem |
Cause |
Recommendation |
| Bad odor, pile is wet and smells sour |
- Temp. less then 140 F
- Pile too wet
- Compaction of yard waste
|
- Turn pile to aerate
- Spread to dry, add bulking material or dry matter (leaves, straw, paper), improve
drainage, aerate
- Turn pile to aerate
|
| Center is dry and contains tough materials |
not enough water |
Chip woody materials, add water and turn |
| Pile is damp and sweet smelling but will heat up |
Lack of nitrogyn |
Mix in a nitrogyn sourse
(grass clippings or urea) |
| Inadequate composing rates |
Material too dry |
Add water initaly, or as a corrective measure when turning |
| |
Pile too large, causing anaerobic conditions |
Make piles smaller. Add
lime if necessary to raise pH and control odors |
| |
Pile too small, leading to heat loss |
Make pile about 1 cubic yd. Colder regions may require greater
height |
| |
Uneven distribution of air, moisture, or nutrients |
Turn or shred pile, add water
if necessary |
| Vermin, rodents, slugs, or mosquitoes |
Presence of garbage |
Put kitchen scraps in the center of the pile, and cover up. Do not put
in meat, bones, oils, or dairy products |
| |
Pile is too wet |
Add dry material |
| Damp and warm only in center |
Pile is too small |
Collect more material and add old into new pile |
|